Research in the International Journal of Materials and Product Technology describes a metal-free dye-fixing process that could help make natural plant dyes more practical for high-performance textiles, addressing a longstanding obstacle to their wider use in sustainable clothing.
Natural plant dyes are biodegradable and generally produce less pollution than synthetic dyes, but they fade easily when worn and subsequently washed and when exposed to light. This has limited their use in functional textiles, antibacterial fabrics or those that help repel biting insects.
The new method replaces the conventional metal salts, or mordants, used to bind dye molecules to fibres. Mordants are major contaminants of wastewater from the textile dyeing sector. The new fixation system is based on a modified form of chitosan, a biopolymer derived from natural sources such as crustacean shells, and ellagic acid, which is found in many plants.
The dyes are held in place through electrostatic attraction between electrically charged molecules and hydrogen bonding, a chemical interaction that helps stabilise the dye without permanently altering the fabric. The researchers also optimised dyeing conditions, temperature, acidity, and steam treatment, to improve dye uptake while preserving the fabric’s functional properties.
In their tests on antibacterial fabrics, they showed that around 70 per cent of the dye remained on the fabric even after 25 washes, with water and light fastness remaining high even after many hours of exposure. Antibacterial performance remained above 90 per cent after repeated washing.
Han, J., Zhang, Z. and Chang, J. (2026) ‘Colour fixation process and colour fastness improvement strategies for natural plant dyes in functional clothing fabrics’, Int. J. Materials and Product Technology, Vol. 70, No. 6, pp.3–26.
News media may use this press release as source material, in whole or in part, provided the content is not materially misrepresented. A link back to the original article is appreciated.